Dishoom (Covent Garden)

A London phenomenon started by two British-Indian cousins, Dishoom arrived in 2010 at this location, setting out to nostalgically capture the spirit and atmosphere of the now near-extinct Bombay cafés operated by Iranian-born Zoroastrian immigrants from the early 1900s onwards. These democratic spaces attracted suited professionals, streetwise and sweaty taxi drivers and young lovers alike. The modern London reinvention is a bit more 'knowing' and the decor 'quality ersatz' — and the menu speaks to a food-savvy and ethno-curious clientele — but that's not a problem here, especially considering how tasty the food is. The signature dish is perhaps the egg (and bacon) naan, and there's so much more beyond that breakfast specialty: black daal, chicken ruby, mutton pepper fry, chili chicken, spicy lamb chops, chicken berry Britannia, murgh malai, bhel, chili broccoli salad etc. This two-floor operation (about a three-minute walk from Soho) is a wonder considering the number of covers and the quality of the food, with great service to match. And for every meal consumed, Dishoom donates a meal to a child by way of charity Akshaya Patra. Locations include Kings Cross (5 Stable St, near Granary Square...opened in 2015) [see entry], Soho (12 Kingly St, just off Carnaby St), Shoreditch (7 Boundary St), Kensington (4 Derry St), Battersea (Upper Ground Floor, 42 Electric Blvd) and Canary Wharf (13 Water Street), plus Edinburgh, Birmingham and Manchester. For the record, 'dishoom' can mean swagger or style, or it's a cartoony word that conveys the sound of a punch. Expect queues at all time, but you can book online (though after 6pm it's parties of six or more only). And should the website claim there's zero availability for a desired slot, phone them and you might just nab a table.