L'Escargot

 
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French and swish and a soupçon gay
An on and off and on celebrated Soho fixture since 1896 (at this premises from 1927), L'Escargot was revamped to mostly admired effect in 2014 by Brian Clivaz (Langan’s Brasserie), Laurence Isaacson (Chez Gérard co-founder) and co, with chef Oliver Lesnik overseeing a kitchen devoted to a tradition of French classics. But the context — the olde-worlde 1741 Soho townhouse, the cosily opulent decor, the intimately sized rooms — are the main reasons for settling down at lunch or dinner here.

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