Dover Street Market

An arty retail concept/enterprise started in 2004, overseen by Tokyo-born Comme des Garçons founder Rei Kawakubo and partner Adrian Joffe, who in March 2016 moved the operation from a narrow but intimate townhouse-like space in Mayfair to this full-blown, full-on creation inside Burberry's former HQ in Haymarket. As with its previous incarnation, "beautiful chaos" is the mantra here, with five dizzying floors of Comme and other fashion-adventurous brands framed by big, curious, colourful and playful installations. Intimidating prices are not matched by snooty staff, with an atmosphere that is quietly buzzy, inventive and welcoming, if possibly overpopulated with security staff. Mega-pricey but well-executed savoury and sweet options are available on the top floor at Rose Bakery, run by Rose Carrarini, who in 1988 started the original and now-defunct Villandry. DSM also operates in Tokyo, New York, Singapore and Los Angeles, plus a franchise in Beijing. Tube stations: Piccadilly Circus and Leicester Square.