J Sheekey

A long-established haunt of London Theatreland actors and luvvies in search of delicious, reliable and rather non-budget seafood dishes in a buzzy and club-like but warm and comforting environment, with a history going back to the 1890s (and marked by a near-imperceptible 1998 upgrade). Menu includes a yummy signature salmon-and-cod fish pie, Cornish fish stew, rib eye steak, monkfish and tiger prawn curry, and weekly specials. Still-newish-feeling adjacent oyster bar (The Atlantic) — with a tapas-like menu, but including the famous fish pie — opened in 2009 and provides an even more casual and less expensive option for customers, including solo dining on high-backed stools at the bar. Excellent wine list with a selection of champagnes. The original restaurant area is cosily elegant, marked by deep-red leather seating and banquettes and handsome panelled walls adorned with framed b&w photos of great (and also lesser-known) theatre stars, with John Gielgud at the front entrance and Maggie Smith positioned both at the base of the stairs and, a few steps away, just outside the gents. Reassuring.