St John

 
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Serious but buzzy world-famous British establishment for carnivores
Since October 1994 inspired chef Fergus Henderson's 'nose to tale eating' restaurant (with co-founder Trevor Gulliver) has put offal back on the table, with dishes such as rolled spleen, deep-fried tripe (and chips) and bone marrow and parsley salad dominating a menu that reassuringly also offers 'normal' dishes. Henderson's motto: if you're gonna kill an animal use all of it. The 'nose to tale' ethos — which draws from French and Italian practices and is not, as is thought, quintessentially British — started at the dining room Henderson operated on the first floor of the French House in Soho's Dean St. Located in a white-walled former smokehouse in atmospheric Smithfield, St John also boasts a smaller but equally visually appealing second outlet St John Bread & Wine [see entry] in the east London area Spitalfields, where on Sunday mornings you can drown a hangover with London's finest bacon sandwiches. In 2018 Henderson opened a bakery in Neal's Yard, but the goods have travelled well across town to get there ('semi-industrial artistan' quality??).

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