Junk

21st-century Old Compton St has witnessed the proliferation of novelty food chains, few of which (thankfully) have survived. Junk — a small French chain of high-quality smash burgers (thin patties with a crisp edge) — might buck the trend. The business was co-founded in 2013 by two Tunisian-born Parisians — entrepreneur Majed Mansour and self-taught chef Wissem Ben Ammar — who didn't open their first outlet (in Paris's rue Montmartre) until 2022. As of 2024 there are already 14 Junks across France, with the duo crossing the border for the first time in order to open this London branch (September 2024). Burgers come in five sizes, and there's a veggie option, all served on...surprise surprise... a brioche bun. Plus specially coated Panko chicken nuggets. And the chips are excellently crispy. There's also dessert: Ammar's Puffy cookies – bulging confections that resemble a cross between a chocolate chip cookie and...a burger (and which Ammar sells in his own Paris shops). The smash burger is bit like 'dirty burger: next generation', and Ammar's creed is "gourmet and minimalist", with a decor (stainsteel steel à la designer Will McGrath) to match. Pronounced 'junk' as in English.