Dishoom (Granary Square, Kings Cross)

A London phenomenon started by two British-Indian cousins, Dishoom arrived in 2010 in Covent Garden [see entry], setting out to nostalgically capture the spirit and atmosphere of the now near-extinct Bombay cafés operated by Iranian-born Zoroastrian immigrants from the early 1900s onwards. These democratic spaces attracted suited professionals, streetwise and sweaty taxi drivers and young lovers alike. The modern London reinvention is a bit more 'knowing' and the decor 'quality ersatz', and the menu speaks to a food-savvy and ethno-curious clientele, but that's not a problem here, especially considering how tasty the food is. The signature dish is perhaps the egg (and bacon) naan, and there's so much more beyond that breakfast specialty: black daal, chicken ruby, mutton pepper fry, chili chicken, spicy lamb chops, chicken berry Britannia, murgh malai, bhel, chili broccoli salad etc. This Kings Cross outlet opened in 2015 in the same massive and beautiful former Victorian railway transit shed that houses art college Central Saint Martins, plus food neighbour Caravan [see entry]. But the buzz here is palpable, with 320 covers spread across four floors, all served with a slick-free smile and staggering efficiency that speak volumes for an operation that in 2017 was serving about 8,000 weekly. And for every meal consumed, Dishoom donates a meal to a child by way of charity Akshaya Patra. Locations include Covent Garden (12 Upper St Martin's Lane — highly recommended, and three minutes from Old Compton St, though prone to queues), Soho (12 Kingly St, just off Carnaby St), Shoreditch (7 Boundary St), Kensington (4 Derry St) and Edinburgh, Birmingham and Manchester. For the record, 'dishoom' can mean swagger or style, or it's a cartoony word that conveys the sound of a punch.