Le Bab

A 2014 pop-up that went permanent in January 2016, Le Bab takes a simple, 'humble' ethnic concept (the kebab) and builds an entire world of new flavours and textures (and food accessories) around it. The menu is focused and reassuringly small, as is the space, perched up on the top floor looking down into (and thankfully seemly detached from) the very buzzy, nouveau mall-like foodie ghetto Kingly Courty, immediately west of Carnaby St in Soho. This is very fine cooking showcasing wood-fired flavours of the Middle East, near East and South Asia, achieved on a wood- and charcoal-fired robata. Drinkees are also a thing here. Not cheap, but yummy and novel. Started by Stephen Tozer and former Le Gavroche chef Ed Brunet. Plus Brixton, Covent Garden, Old Street, Spitalfields and Battersea Power Station. Tube station: Oxford Circus.